Traveler's Tales: Great Scot!

How can one do justice in describing a visit to Edinburgh? As I recollect my fond memories of my trip in early May, it seems that I have to tell about many cities. There is the Old City and the New City, cleaved in two by a large valley. There is the daytime Edinburgh of tourists and shops and the nighttime Edinburgh of clubs and hard-partying, drink-downing Scots. The city is at once both young and old.

In a way, I feel as though I visited the city as two different people: there was tourist me, off to visit the castle and hike Arthur's Seat; and there was the student me, the young American me, hoping from bar to bar, scene to scene. Its amazing how much one's experience of a place is dependent upon one's identity in that place.

It is hard to experience a city as a local might without some sort of guide who can tell you what is real or authentic. I was lucky to be staying with my college buddy Nathan Hakimi who has been living in the city for the past four months. His abroad program has placed him in a flat with other Scottish students so he is keyed into the local nightlife already.

Some of the higlights of my trip include the first night I got there, when we sat around and watched election returns (an historic night to be there), went to a club, came back and kept watching election results. It was interesting to see how other culture's relate to their elections. The youth were mostly nonplussed.



The next day, Nathan and I walked up to Edinburgh Castle and spent most of the day wandering arond the castle, which is basically the Tower of London of Edinburgh. Please don't tell any Scots I said that, they would not be pleased. That night, Nathan and I went to a cool venue where there was a concert of alt-acts. The headliner were a pair of American's singing British folk (much better than that description might lead you to believe).

Saturday morning, I woke up early and set out to explore the city on my own, as a tourist. I chose to go on a hop-on-hop-off bus tour as a way to both get around the city and get a bit of a tour. Halfway through the ride, I hopped-off at the foot of Arthur's Seat. Arthur's Seat is a mountain/public park that holds court over the entire city and the North Sea. I popped in my headphones and took a hike to the top. It was tough, but worth it. The views all the way up were incredible. By the time I got back to the bus, I was exhausted. But my day of tourism was not over, I went to the touristy shopping street to get my hands on some cheap Scottish cashmere (check!).

(not Roslin Chapel)

That night, Nathan and I went to go see a play at a local theater (The Goat, by Edward Albee) and then met some of his friends at a club. The next morning we were pretty worn out from the late night but decided to go on a little adventure. About a half hour outside of Edinburgh is Roslin Chapel. Roslin was made famous by its portrayal in The DaVinci Code. Over ten years, the church has seen its visitation risen from a couple thousand a year to around 150,000 a year. Thats a big increase. The chapel is famous for its intricate masonry and mysterious carvings. The chapel was a treat, and I highly recommend it to anyone who has an extra afternoon in Edinburgh. That night, I was back in A'dam.

I still have a few more days in Amsterdam and definitely have more posts to write: I have yet to tell you about Istanbul or Budapest. I also want to write a wrap-up about my experience here. I return hom on June 3rd, but might have a few posts out after that. I can't wait to see you all soon.

Getting on with it...

Would it be cliche to say that I have been doing so much lately that I haven't been able to write about it? Well, I am here now, ready to regale you with my goings on!

The past month has been so much fun! Even though the weather has recently turned sour (rain, gray skies...) there was a two-week period where we saw sun and warm weather! So it was nice to have some real outdoor friendly weather in the city. Some highlights include visiting the nearby botanic garden, having a picnic in the Oosterpark and going to a great local brewery which is housed in an old windmill and has a patio on the IJ channel.

Amsterdam in the Spring can be a magical place, everywhere there seems to be something flowering or growing. Tulips pop up in every park and in every planter. The city grows. Tourists flood into the city, spilling over into the bike lanes and tram cars. Somehow the city keeps running smoothly.

Even the hardworking Dutch occasionally strike and for the past two weeks there has been no sanitation department activity. Its supposed to end tonight. I hope so, my trash day is tomorrow.

Above all, there has been three major highlights in my last few weeks: a group trip to Schiermonnikoog (pronounced: ski-er-moan-ee-koh), Koninginnedag (eh, not worth the pronunciation, just call it Queen's Day) and a trip to Edinburgh. I know, Dutch is an insane language and thank god we speak English (it was this close to being Dutch...).

Schiermonnikoog is an usland in the way north of The Netherlands in Friesland province. It is one of a string of islands that form a chain between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea. The difference between the currents of the two seas has made Schiermonnikoog an important ecological site and the entire island (including the village/beach town) is a National Park.

The trip was organized by my abroad organization, CIEE, and was great as usual. Very well planned, fun, and not too strict.

One of the unique features of the Island that results from the weird current patterns is that when the tide goes out, much of seabed is revealed as a murky, muddy well mudflat. not only can you hike it, it is even possibly to walk across the sea shore to the mainland. We did get that far. But we did go waddenlopen as its called. Our guide taught us all about the ecological heritage of the mudflats and we even caught some
Oysters and Mussels that we later cooked!


Later that day, we got the opportunity to explore the island on our own. I set out to circumnavigate the island by bike. I even managed to recruit a couple friends to join me on my journey around the island. We made a few stops to enjoy the nature (a quick walk around the km-wide beach, a short stop at the dunes). It was a lot of fun, and there was a lot to see.

By the time we made it back, we were exhausted. Luckily, there was not much to do besides dinner. After dinner we all went out, including our program directors. The next day followed a similar pattern, lots of outdoor activity and even a campfire on the beach at night.

April 30th is the official celebration of the Queen's Birthday (Koninginnedag). The entire country is on holiday and there are massive street parties in every city in the nation. By far, the largest one is in Amsterdam. It is estimated that around 700,000 people came into the city for the celebrations, roughly doubling the population. On Koninginnegad, anyone is allowed to sell things in the street, the entire country has a vrijmarket (free market). That means loads of stree vendors, food, and all sorts of other goodies.

On Koninginnedag, it is customary to deck oneself out in Organge and spend the entire day partying with friends. The Dutch know how to have a holiday. In fact, because they have the next day off, the Dutch have turned the night before Queens Day, other wise known as Koninginnenacht into a party in its own right. There were free concerts held all over the city.

In the Dam, there was a huge carnival going on which included a large Ferris wheel. The pictures are evidence of the awesome views provided by the ride.

I have been having so much in the past few weeks that the time has just been flying by! I cannot believe that I am leaving here in less that three weeks! I am excited to be home again and see everyone but really sad about leaving Amsterdam. The fickle thing about abroad is that you can never recreate the experience. No matter how often I come back to Amsterdam, I will never have the same experience because abroad is so much about the people you meet and spend time with. I have made great friendships with people from all over the world, some of them I will probably never see again.

I hope to write again soon about my trip last weekend to Edinburgh. But, you will have to forgive me if I choose to spend my last few days in Amsterdam and not in front of a screen. Tot ziens!

Amsterdam

Where else would I want to be today?

Spring, sprung

(photo credit: Jen Winston)

Spring has officially arrived in Amsterdam! This past week marked the symbolic arrival of spring. The weather, a harbinger for the week to come, has been warm and sunny since Tuesday and the entire city has seemed to blossom in response. Oh sure, there had been early bloomers: cafes putting tables on the street again, the occasional nice day; but, no doubt this week was, for me, the official arrival of Spring.

After weeks of travel, visits and then midterms, this past week was a welcomed respites from the (albeit, minor) pressures of life in Amsterdam. With no big assignments due, I was free to enjoy this week in utter relaxation, carefree and jubilant. My vernal week truly began on Tuesday, with a trip to the NEMO museum. NEMO is the children's museum, built to resemble a boat sitting in the harbor. The museum, while gauged to a younger audience, was fun and interesting. It brought to mind past fieldtrips.

Later that day, my friends and I met up at a brewery/bar that inhabits an old windmill that sits on the IJ channel. The afternoon sun provided an excellent setting in which to enjoy the good company and tasty beer. After a quick stop at home for a bite to eat, I met a few other friends and we all headed off to a Squatter bar that host a ping-pong night every Tuesday. For those unaware, Squatters have lots of rights in the liberal Netherlands and are even recognized as having 'squatter culture'. If any building is uninhabited for over a year, anybody has a legal right to live in it.

The bar was cool and its offer of ping pong wasn't wrong. The version played at the club was an elaborate ritual in which all of the contestants would line up in a circle with two stationed at the table, after each hit, the circle would rotate. If a player won a point, his opponent was booted from the game. This continued until the last two remaining players battled it out for victory. This spectacle, combined with cheap bear and good music provided for a wonderful evening.

On Wednesday, I had the pleasure of taking a leisurely bike ride up the Amstel river to the little town of Oude Kerk aan de Amstel. The ride begins in central Asmterdam but quickly gives way to quiter suburbs. Then, suddenly one finds oneself surrounded by farms and country living. Yet, the city (with skyscrapers and modern arenas) always stands paradoxically in the background either way you look. The Amstel River is a modern oasis in an urban city.

Upon my return, I went to the barbecue hosted by my dorm which took place on the patio next to the canal. The still beaming sun and the majestic canal provided a wonderful setting for our lively BBQ. Good times were assuredly had by all.

Thursday was a quieter day with Dutch class and an interview for a summer job being the most exciting parts of that day. But Friday. Friday is a different story.

On Friday, I visited the Keukenhof gardens with my friends Jen and Vivian. The gardens contain a huge variety of plants and flowers but specialize in the local Tulip. Open for only two months out of the year, the Keukenhof is the definition of Spring in Amsterdam.

After a short train then bus ride from Centraal Station, we made it to the gardens. It is hard to describe the astounding beauty of the gardens. Upon first glance in any direction, once is jolted with the panoply of colors and patterns, each great swath of vivid red, green, white combing to create a vernal quilt before one's very own eyes.

Yet, this romantic description does not accurately reflect the beauty of the gardens. The overwhelming sense of beauty is compounded upon the astonishing realization that every individual flower, every petal is beautiful and majestic in its own right.

And so I surrendered to the beauty of the Keukenhof. Giving in the the deeper, more sub-conscious delight of the experience. Perhaps it was in that garden that I suddenly was struck with the notion that it was officially Spring. but, how could one not be when presented with such overwhelming evidence in every direction.

As it is said on Passover, it would have been enough. Had I only managed to go to NEMO and take a great bike ride this week, it would have been enough. Had I only managed to go to NEMO, take a great bike ride and go to the Keukenhof, it would have been enough. But, I still had Saturday.

Yesterday, I embarked on yet another adventure with some old and new friends. For the shear hell of it, we decided to find "De Bezaar" a massive, part-outdoors market in the middle of quiet town (suburb?) in North Holland.

Having recently visited the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, the contrast was quite evident. One is a centuries old center of trade where you could buy just about anything you could need. The other is an attraction that charges for entrance where you can buy just about anything you could need. As my companions in Istanbul know, roaming around a meandering bazaar can be quiet entertaining.

As we headed back to A'dam, we had to change trains in Harlem. As we stood on the 1st track, waiting off our train, one particularly eagle-eyed companion of mine spotted a carnival ride spinning in the background. Not yet ready to call it a day, the five of us fled the station and went off in search of the carnival. It was not hard to find as it was conveniently taking place in the city's main square. The more-adventurous among us, including yours truly, decided to take a spin on the aforementioned ride which took its riders on a big loop up and over; over and over again. The feeling of flying above this medieval city (the ride easily went higher than the majority of the buildings in the city) and then swooping by its magnificent Cathedral was unparalleled.

(photo credit: Jen Winston)

Our day concluded with a delicious Indian meal at a little restaurant we found on the way back to Harlem station. Today, alas, I cannot enjoy the still-beautiful weather because my week of relaxation means that I have to do my homework today.

Still, I can look back and marvel at a week I know I will never forget. The next few weeks promise to be just as fun as the last one was. April is a great month to be in Amsterdam, and I am not going anywhere until May. I hope all of you are enjoying your nascent Springs as much as I am.

(photo credit: Jen Winston)

And Spring arose on the garden fair,
Like the Spirit of Love felt everywhere;
And each flower and herb on Earth's dark breast
rose from the dreams of its wintry rest.
~Percy Bysshe Shelley, "The Sensitive Plant"

Traveller's Tales: Two weeks, Two cities.

It's been too long since my last post, I have so much to update you all on. Well, what are my excuses this time? Nothing original, just school work and traveling all my time. There could be worse things, I suppose.

Now, when I last left off, I was in the middle of my weekend in Geneve. Geneva is a beautiful city, very reminiscent of Paris. The Alps in the background and the beautiful Lac Leman in the foreground create a magical setting. Geneva is not a student-friendly city however. No, true to its reputation, Geneva is a place for the rich and powerful to play.

But that doesn't mean that a poor student cannot appreciate all of the wealth that he will never have (thanks, worst jobs market in a generation!). Indeed, strolling along the broad Swiss streets, past the gilded, private banks, one is reminded of a simpler time. Before any recession or financial crisis.

Geneva certainly has its charms, the view from the top of the Cathedral (above) is simply stunning. I found a La Duree boutique and had macaroons. And the fondue, to die for. But, at the end of the trip I was relieved to return to youthful, relaxed, vibrant Amsterdam; a place where I could fit in.

The next weekend I went to Sevilla to visit my friend Christy. Christy had visited me about two weeks prior to my trip there and we were both excited to see each other again. After finding Christy and dropping my stuff at my better-than-expected hotel, we walked over to the river to saunter along in the warm, sunny air. Before long, we found a stand selling drinks and sat to enjoy a nice, cool glass of sangria while catching up.

For dinner that night we went to a local place that Christy knew and ordered Paella. While Paella is a dish that is found most often on the Eastern coast of Spain, the one we got in inland Sevilla tasted just fine to me. The paella was nicely complemented by more tasty Sangria. That night, I got a taste of Sevillana nightlife as Christy and her friends took me to a few bars.

The next morning, Christy and I got a (somewhat) early start to the day with a trip to the Museo de Bellas Artes. The museum specializes in Spanish masters. Following the museum, we walked to the Al Cazar, the original Moorish castle in the city center. Like most Moorish artifacts, the castle was re-appropriated by its Catholic owners after the Reconquista.

Even though the castle had been mostly destroyed and rebuilt after an earthquake, it retained its elegant, Moorish design. Particularly stunning were the formal gardens, which Christy and I took plenty of time to roam.

After a quick lunch of a small tapa and some fish, Christy and I ventured to the glorious Catedral. One of the largest in the world, the Cathedral of Sevilla is breathtaking. The site had been used thousands of years ago as a Pagan temple and had been appropriated by every group of people to control the city thereafter. The only remaining structures from the Moorish period is an outer wall and the amazing Giralda (first a minaret, now a bell tower). The Cathedral is as opulent and gilded as any church I have ever seen.

Having finished our touristic obligations, Christy and I returned to the river for a quick drink and a long walk. After a visit to her apartment to meet her roommate, Christy and I decided on traditional tapas for dinner. We found a place with an open table and proceeded to slowly stuff ourselves over the next two hours. A bottle of red wine completed the meal.

The next morning, I returned to Amsterdam. I have since had many more adventures both here and abroad! I can't wait to share them with you. I promise to try and be more prompt with my blog posting but be assured that If I am too slow it is because I am out doing things to tell you about!

But, since I have a few more minutes, I will give you all a quick update. About two weeks ago, Danny came to visit. We had a great time and saw a great concert! Then, a week ago Saturday the rest of my family and the entire Zimelis family came out for a visit. We spent a few days in Amsterdam then all went to Istanbul. It was great to see everybody and I had a great time in Istanbul, I will tell more about it later.

This month I will be just as busy! I just finished my last midterm today (!) so school work should quiet down for a bit. Which is good, cause I have a few visitors. This weekend my friend Sasha from Brandeis is coming to visit. The next weekend I am going to a small island in the north of The Netherlands with my group. The weekend after that my friend Nathan is coming into town for Queensday. Then its May. And May is already looking busy with visits to Edinburg and Budapest already planned.

I can't believe its already been so long since I have been here, it feels like nothing! Well, I better stop writing about living here and go back to actually living here before its too late!

Tot Ziens!

Traveller's Tales (and more): Copenhagen Follies

Its been a crazy two weeks for me here in Amsterdam and it shows no sign of stopping!Right now I am in Geneva with some friends and next weekend I go to Sevilla to visit Christy. My stories about this weekend will have to just wait for another post.

Let's start way back, Copenhagen. Copenhagen is a beautiful, seaside city in southwestern Denmark. I arrived to Copenhagen on a blustery Friday evening. Me, Sydney and our friend Ben beelined for the hotel, then a bar, then back to the hotel.

Saturday morning we met my friend Sasha from Brandeis who is currently studying in CPH. Sasha took us on tour of the city, stopping at some of her favorite places. Our tour started at the city hall square and continued down Stroget. Stroget is the major walking/shopping street in CPH.

Right off Stroget is a little gem know as St. Peter's Bakery. This is where you get the best danishes in Denmark. Ironically, the Danes call their pastries wienebrau (spelling is wrong) or Vienna Bread. I guess great artists really do steal.

Happily satiated, we marched off to Christiania. Christiania is an unincorporated section of Copenhagen that is essentially lawless. The denziens of Christiania do not pay taxes or follow Danish law. They are artists, squatters, free people. Christiania is an artist's colony, a hippie's dream and a general delight. But it will not exist for long. The Danish government does not appreciate the establishment.

My friend Sasha invited me to her visiting family's home for a home cooked meal. And while there was nothing too Danish about the experience, a good meal is always appreciated. Its funny, the suburbs of Copenhagen don't seem too much different than the suburbs back home. Somethings never change.

My next (and last) day in Copenhagen was spent avoiding the debilitating cold. We went to the Danish Design Center and learned about the future of design and sustainability. The exhibit was interesting and eye-opening. After that, we went to the sculpture and Danish art museum; a beautiful building with an intriguing collection.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing before I returned to Amsterdam. Copenhagen is a beautiful city, but too expensive. Not a place I could imagine living unless I was really making bank.

Last weekend I was visited by my friend Christy and we had a great weekend together. Some of the highlights include vising the Royal Palace, the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum. In addition to finally getting to the touristy places in Amsterdam, I also finally visited other parts of the Netherlands.

On Saturday, CIEE took us to Urk and Groningen (don't try and pronounce it, you will fail). Urk is a small fishing town which used to be an Island but is now connected to the mainland thanks to dyke-building and land reclamation projects. Urk provided a fascinating look into the regular lives of regular Dutch folk.

Groningen is a typical Dutch city in the very north. It has a university, canals, and beautiful architecture. I do not have much to say about the city except that it is a lovely place to spend and afternoon and fresh stroopwafels are un-freaking-believable.

Anyway, I am still in Geneve and have more to do. I will post on my trip here as soon as I can.

Bon Soir!

Short Update: Copenhagen and more...

Its been quite a busy week for me and I am only finally getting back to posting. Last weekend I visited Copenhagen and had a very nice time. I will write a full post on my trip soon, but until then I will give you three thoughts from my trip:

1) Copenhagen is too expensive
2) Don't go anytime that is near winter
3) The city is beautiful and a must-visit.

Despite the weather and the cost, Copenhagen impressed me with its physical beauty and foward-thinking attitude.

Besides traveling, I have been doing homework. My classes have been very interesting and informative but I have had alot of work (not fair!). I guess I am here to study, but I had hoped that I wouldn't be working so hard. This weekend I am being visited by an old friend of mine from High School. I am so excited. Besides having a friend in town, I finally get to do all the touristy things that I have been putting off.

On Saturday I am going to Groningen (a student city in the north) with my program and am excited to see what the rest of the Netherlands is like. Perhaps the most exciting upcoming event is the March 3rd World Cup prelim between the Netherlands and USA that I have a ticket to! A real, live, HUGE soccer game. We will be in the American section (too bad) but I will be wearing orange.

That's all for now! As the Dutch say,

Tot Ziens!

Traveler's Tales, Part 01: Like Drinking Antwerpentine

Why is it that we always remember our worst travel experiences more vividly than the trips that accompanied them? I will never forget the night my family spent trapped in Dublin. Nor will I ever stop telling the story of how it took 36 hours to get back from Argentina.

Like countless other stories of snow, unexplained problems and unreliable public transportation, my return journey from Antwerp was memorable for all the wrong reasons, but I am getting ahead of myself.

Yesterday morning, I--naive and untested--embarked on my first foray outside of the Netherlands. I met up with two friends, Jen and Aliza, at Amstel Station and got on a bus to Antwerp.

Antwerp is a primarily Flemish city just over the border in Belgium. Normally, a good travel writer would take this opportunity to explain the cultural significance of his destination. However, I arrived in Belgium without even a map, never mind any knowledge of the city and its history.

It turned out that none of us had done any research; so, dropped on a random street corner, we took off in what seemed to be the right direction. Maybe Antwerp is a small city; or maybe my inherent sense of direction took over, either way, we soon stumbled upon the stunning Central Station (pictured above). Some friendly locals pointed us down the main
touristic artery and we were off.

Having finally found a reasonable restaurant, the three of us ordered sandwiches, frys and (of course) beer. Thus began my (new) Belgium ritual: when in Belgium, one must drink only Belgian beer and must never order the same beer twice.

With full stomachs and updated direction, Jen, Aliza and I marched into the snow in search of the Mode Museum. The museum chronicles the 140 year history of Belgium's premier fashion line, Delvaux. Jen and Aliza were thoroughly impressed. For my part, I enjoyed the short duration of the exhibit.

Our next (and last) tourist stop of the day was the Cathedral. A magnificent Baroque structure, the Antwerp Cathedral is cannot be missed. The friendly ticket-taker at the Mode Museum informed us that Antwerp was the home of Peter-Paul Rubens, old master. Besides the collection at the Rubenshuis (which I regrettably missed), there is a fine collection of Rubens and other assorted old masters hanging in the Antwerp Cathedral. When the church was originally built, it was filled with triptychs by Rubens and others; but, when the French gained control of the city, they stole the art. When the art was eventually returned, it hung in the Antwerp Museum of Fine Arts. However, said museum is currently under construction; thus, the paintings are temporarily on display in their original home, De Kathedraal.

With a keen eye on our watches, the three intrepid explorers went in search of two rare delicacies, waffles and chocolate. The first was found at a street vendor. The waffles are warm and fresh, slathered in a gooey sugary coating which can only be described as divine. The Belgian waffle is starchier, both in taste and consistency, than its American cousin. But the experience is sublime.

I tell you, there is nothing more gluttonous than walking into a chocolate boutique in Belgium while still eating your fresh waffle. How the people stay in shape is beyond me. Neuhaus Chocolate is a traditional Belgian confectionery.

Once cannot accurately describe the perfection that is a Belgian chocolate. Suffice it to say that I will be returning to Belgium soon, if just for another few pieces of chocolate.

It was now 5pm, and our three travelers were very cold. The thought of a warm bar and a good beer was too enticing to pass up. So, we made our way closer to central station and found a pub to pass the time. As part of my pledge to drink not drink the same beer twice, I cataloged each beer with a picture. The following are the results from the pub.
















Our day in Antwerp at an end, the three of us walked back to our bus stop exhausted but exuberant. Our first trip abroad had been successful, easy and most of all, fun! But dark times were ahead. Our journey was only just beginning. The office of the bus company, Easy Lines, had closed a half hour before we had gotten there, but buses were still clearly running. We decided to wait it out buy buying some more beer and some french fries.

Returning to the bus stand with ten minutes to spare, we began to wait. And we kept waiting. And kept waiting. And the bus never came. Another bus driver said that the roads were bad. A second driver said it was coming, it was always late. The bus line's call center was not working. A little worried and very tired, we finally decided to call our program director to ask for advice. Renee told us that indeed, traffic was bad and that we might as well try to get a train back.

So, we embarked once more for the central station. We had waited two hours for our prodigal bus, but it never showed. Running to try and make a 9pm train, we rushed into central station to find that the 9pm to Amsterdam had been canceled. UGH. WE had hit our lowest point, a proverbial dead end. With little hope, we asked if the 10pm would actually run. The clerk replied that he thought so and sold us three tickets. He also told us to check back in a half hour.

Temporarily buoyed, we explored the station. When the clerk told us that he had called Brussels and the train had left the station and was indeed running, we were all thrilled. We were finally going to get home. Once we got on the train, we were finally able to open the beer we had purchased so long ago, intended for our 2.5 hour journey home.

But, nature and the failings of the European rail network had one final wrench to throw. The train was being diverted because of weather conditions on the track. Instead, we would have to go to Utrecht and transfer there to a train headed to Amsterdam.

We boarded at midnight, exhausted, drained, and with one more beer left. As is visible in the picture, I barely had the energy to drink it (but somehow I go through it anyway). About 25 minutes later we pulled into Amsterdam Central Station, where I was greeted with a 20 minute walk through the blustery-cold back to my dorm.

It almost feels like two different stories. "My Day in Antwerp" and "My Night Getting Home". Such a perfect day was overshadowed by a nightmare journey home. But in a way, I am glad that I went through that. It;s in those "we are screwed" moments that we are reminded that the only thing we need to get by is some good friends.

Because it took me six hours to get home, and because I spent two hours waiting for a bus that never came I will never forget my trip to Antwerp. And that is a great thing.

"There's a time warp in Amsterdam--Music is where it was in the '40s"

It was a slightly less brisk Thursday evening and a handful of new Dutch students biked off into the night. The cobbled streets and motionless canals whizzed by as the students rode towards Leidseplein and a little gem known as Cafe Alto.

Cafe Alto is a tiny hole-in-the-wall jazz club and bar in one of the most touristy areas of Amsterdam. But the neon hustle and bustle of the streets does not spill into the diminutive Cafe Alto. No more than three yards across, its the kinda place that always feels packed. We walked out of the cold only to be greeted with incendiary modern jazz. An electric guitarist, drummer and keyboardist were wailing away at the far end of the place.

During a quick break from the stage, we were able to grab a table up front. We took time to admire the walls and ceiling of the cafe, covered in photographs and posters of jazz giants. The trio returned to the stage for their 3rd set and we settled in, ready for the show.

What came next was simply indescribable, a veritable cascade of splintering guitar antics and keyboard and organ blasts and a percussionist having the time of his life. We were all mesmerized by the perfection of the guitarist. And boy, did he look the part. Lanky in a pair of tight jeans and with hair that went to his chin, he stood like a rock god of old and put on a clinic.

None of us were prepared for the conclusion of the set. The piece d'resistance. A slow beat broke the silence, some light synths emanated from the keyboard. And then, with all the urgent energy of an electric wail, the guitarist launched into Billie Jean. A half-improvised masterpiece followed. A celestial organ preached while the guitar whined through the bridge. A guitar solo here, a drum solo there... and then the final climax. We could all hear it:

Billie Jean is not my lover...
Billie Jean is not my lover...
Billie Jean is not my lover...

The set wrapped. The band left the stage; the magic lingered for just a moment longer.

Jazz may have been popular in Amsterdam back in the '40s too; but by no means is the music scene stuck in the past. Jazz here is just as fresh, edgy and full of energy as when Miles Davis invented 'cool'.

Some Pictures and a Quick Update!

I officially started classes this week. That is exciting, but also somewhat disheartening. I am looking forward to all of my classes so far, but they do seem to be a lot of work. Oh well, I came here for a reason (to study!)

I am still settling in, but I already feel comfortable in the city. Amsterdam is a very welcoming place and an easy city to call home. My neighborhood is very nice and I am looking forward to exploring it more. Today is a day off from classes so I am planing on running errands and maybe going to a museum later. I have not yet been to any of the museums in Amsterdam, but am really excited about a few of them. Amsterdam has two of the best art museums in the world (The Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum), but it also has a plethora of other museums that are begging to be explored.

In lieu of a full update, I have posted some pictures of my room and my neighborhood. At top is the Oosterpark, a large city park that is just a couple of minutes from my dorm. It is just across a canal in the Oost (East) section of the city while I am in the Center. Next is a group of street performers from the flea market in Waterlooplein. The market is expansive and quite nice. It is a great place to buy things on the cheap. Further down is the Kriterion Bar and Theater. Kriterion is the local bar but is also an art-house theater. They play everything from documentaries to new movies to classics. They also have cheap Belgium beer (!).

The next photo is of my kitchen, and then two of my dorm. Finally I have included a picture of the view from my window which overlooks the Nieuwe Kaisergracht.

I update again as soon as possible, I really appreciate everyone who has been reading my blog. As the Dutch say, Tot Ziens! (See you later!)

Amsterdam: Where Beer is Cheaper than Water

Yes its true. Beer is cheaper than water. At the local supermarket, Albert Heijn, A crate of local beer (24 bottles) goes for around 12 Euros. Grolsch Beer, which is relatively expensive in the US, is a Dutch Pilsner and quite good. The Dutch have a very high bottle deposit (25 cents) included in the price of beer. So, if you return all 24 bottles to the grocery after you drink them you get 6 Euros back. Meaning that you pay 6 Euros total for 24 beers. Or, about 25 cents a bottle.

So, Beer is cheaper than water. Don't worry Mom and Dad, I won't be spending too much money! Actually, I have noticed that Amsterdam is less expensive than I expected when one takes the time to look for the right places. In fact, Amsterdam is noticeably less expensive than a place like London or Paris.

Actively looking for the cheaper prices and bargains makes me feel like I am living here and not just traveling here. It is nice to start to feel integrated into the society, even after a week. The local Dutch have been very welcoming even though we are new (obnoxious) students. Instead of treating us like idiots, they tell us a bit about local life, or where locals spend time.

I am constantly figuring out a city that seems to be shunning and embracing rules at the same time. The duality of the Dutch personality is what makes the city so livable. Everything is orderly and efficient. The streets are clean, the trams run well, etc. But you are also surrounded by a sense of of individuality, of creativity, of unrestricted hedonism. So perhaps it is this dichotomy that makes Amsterdam so livable and enjoyable.

Or maybe its the 25 cent beer.

Major Update: The First Four Days!

Phew! I am finally moved in and settled a bit into my daily routine here in Amsterdam. It has been a crazy four days and I am so excited to share my experience with you all.

Monday morning I landed at Schipol Airport and met other members of my CIEE program for the first time. Everyone I have met has been nice and down to earth. People are friendly and everyone seems to get along really well. From Schipol we ent to the StayOkay Hostel in Vondelpark (the Central Park of Amsterdam) where I meet the rest of my group and started orientation. The first two days of orientation were rather slow, a lot of being talked at and taking care of logistics. During this time, I took a 3.5 hour walking tour of the city (in the freezing cold), bought a bike, went on a canal cruise and more!

The hostel was nice and in a very cool location (but touristy). Everyone was really frustrated with living in the hostel because we could not unpack our suitcases and were fit in like sardines.

Yesterday afternoon, I officially moved in to my dorm. The dorm is large and clean, in a great location. My building (Plantage Muidergracht 125) is in a beautiful part of the city. I am about a block from the zoo, three blocks from the Botanical gardens and a couple blocks the other way to the Oosterpark (the second biggest park in Amsterdam). There is a clear reason why all the street names here start with "plantation". It takes me about ten minutes to bike to the center and it is quite a pretty ride.

I live on the fourth floor of building with a canal view and a window that opens up to my roof. I share the floor with two people and it is exceptionally nice. Each floor has a kitchen with a common room and a TV. It is very comfortable and homey.

The city itself is spectacular in its vibrancy. Everywhere you turn there is something original, different and always cool. Amstedam is a unique blend of old and new. Plus, the city seems less corporate/commercial than other major cities (like Chicago or Paris). There is a true sense of unique locality when you walk around Amsterdam. I mean that I see less chains and corporate outfits and more local shops.

This morning I began my orientation with the International Student Network (ISN). ISN is the group that organizes for all of the foreign students studying in Amsterdam. It was great to meet people who were not American.

Later this afternoon, I went out with some friends to the grocery store and then we cooked for ourselves for the first time. In true Dutch fashion we have chosen to solve the food problem communally. By all chipping in for food and cooking together, we can save money but still have fun with meals.

Its midnight here and I have to get up early tomorrow to become an official resident of The Netherlands. I will post again soon on the culture I have experienced and some of the fun things I have been able to do. Also, I will post pics tomorrow of my dorm and building.

As the Dutch say, Tot Ziens! (until later)

David

Interesting Dutch Fact #1

From Annabelle, the typically tall, blond and leggy program director: Dutch people do not draw their blinds at night, being able to see into people's houses is a way of showing that everything is normal inside.

More on orientation later.

Mobile update: I'm siting in the plane, going to take off soon. I can't wait! I don't know when I next will have Internet to update but I will post a quick note as soon as I can.

Top 7 Things I Would Call my Blog if it wasn't called "The Rijks Stuff"

7) Finger in the Dike
6) Van Goghing Dutch
5) Un-Clogging
4) Clog in the Machine
3) Dam Good Time
2) Tilting at Windmills

and, the number one thing I would call my blog if it wasn't called "The Rijks Stuff"

1) To Holland Back

Leavin' on a Jet Plane

Hi all! Thanks for checking out my new blog. In a couple of hours I will be on my way to Amsterdam to start my new semester abroad. I plan on chronicling my experiences over the next four months and hope to make my blog as entertaining as possible.

Please feel free to comment!